s it weird that I am a little sad that the restaurants are back open in Beijing? Maybe, but maybe not. At first I was annoyed and a little worried when dining-in was suspended in late April, but soon those feelings were gone as Beijing dining establishments adapted very quickly, and so did Beijingers.
First it started with people just sitting outside the restaurants they got their take-out from. It felt like I was transported to my almost long-forgotten first few months in Beijing where there were people gathered on streets and alleyways with makeshift tables and tiny stools drinking cheap beer and wolfing down copious amounts of BBQ meats and veggies. However, this started to defeat the purpose of the ban, and some establishments were even getting in trouble. So, we adapted.
Now the trend was heading to the river, and there was one in particular that drew the attention of gaggles of Beijinger’s ready to relax throw back a few drinks – Liangma River which has been spruced up considerably. Local media even described it as the “Seine of Beijing.” My friends and I tried to find quieter spots, but the river was busy from daybreak with families and grannies and grandpas relaxing on benches, fishing, blowing bubbles and having picnics, and as night would fall, so would the chaos.
Most nights there were crowds of people, Chinese and expats alike, but after two weeks, the river’s popularity started drawing the attention of the authorities. Some bars were even setting up in the covered areas around the river to sell drinks and food vendors were scattered around selling snacks. Some started bars out of their car trunks. It felt like a huge outdoor festival. Well, until the security guards came around asking everyone to leave. Then the unthinkable happened... Liangma River was gated off.
Some parts were still open during the day with heavier patrols at night. While this dampened many of our spirits and left us wondering where we could go now, we adapted again. Friends in different groups were branching out and finding rivers and areas slightly farther outside central Beijing. We stumbled upon an amazing river spot that had blocked the roads for cars to come in and park, but scooters could still navigate through. We decided to take full advantage of this hidden gem and packed up our bags, tents and grills to camp on the riverbank before it too got found out by the rest of the hordes scavenging Beijing for hangout spots. And it was lucky we did because the next weekend they extended the barriers so even our scooters couldn’t make it in.
With all of our options dwindling, my friends and I decided to head out to the outskirts of the city and rent a homestay. Funnily enough, we weren’t the only ones. With most of the rivers bulking up their security and nowhere to hang out, I saw my WeChat Moments filled with people heading to the Great Wall for camping or the outer districts of Huairou and Miyun for homestays. After a quick 90-minute drive, we found ourselves up in the mountains and in a cute, quaint three-room homestay with a grill, kitchen and pool that only ran us 680 yuan (US$100) each for two nights.
One morning we decided to take a walk around the little village neighborhood, and we discovered almost every house on the road was remodeling or being built into guest houses or villas. Some were small and rustic with Chinese characteristics, and some could hold up to 20 people and were outfitted with huge tubs in each room, large pools and chef’s kitchens. It seems that change in travel has also changed the tourism industry. We loved it so much we are going back again this weekend, but this time instead of the rustic house, we are going for a updated, modern one with two pools, three stories with an amazing view and an un-restored section of the Great Wall that runs from the mountain in front of the house all the way under it and up the mountain on the other side – the best combination of past and present.
On our last day at the homestay we got the news that restaurants would resume service on June 1 and I had mixed emotions. While my friends and I booked a table at Haidilao for some hotpot the day it reopened, I couldn’t help but think while I was dipping my veggies in the boiling sauce that I hoped the river and homestay trend would continue. During the month of “lockdown lite” I felt like I bonded more with my friends, was able to explore my own backyard and enjoy nature, and last but not least, save a ton of money. So I hope all the adaptations us Beijingers had to make are here to stay. See you at the river.
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